The Emerald Isle

Ahhhh, Ireland. So beautiful. Green and lush, and the people are SO welcoming and friendly. One person said that you never really get lost in Ireland (at least for long) because you just stop and ask someone. I guess whoever said that didn't mean in the bar district at 2am haha! No but really, people have been very helpful. 

We did a ton of walking around in Dublin when we were there. We saw the Famine Memorial, the Ha'penny Bridge, St. Patrick's Cathedral, Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin Castle, and more. The pedestrian walkways are excellent. All cobblestones and shops and pubs. Many, many pubs. B&B's are my favourite type of accommodation (although I think S prefers hotels) because I like meeting the people and I like the home cookin'!  Dragging your bags up and down stairs is a bit of a chore, though. 

Our first driving destination was to visit Newgrange in the Boyne Valley. It's a huge stone-age tomb that is older than the Pyramid of Giza in Egypt! Pretty cool. Then we were off to Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland. It's quite a sight! Hexagonal columns all around the bay. Not sure the science behind it, but the interpretive centre has a whole giant-fable to go with your exploration of the area. I posted photos of both Newgrange and Giant's Causeway on FB if you want a look.

The next day we drove from Bundoran (a cute little coastal town) to Galway (a cute large coastal town).  Our B&B was right on the water: Galway Bay/Atlantic Ocean! Just a short swim and we'd hit the Maritimes. ;)  Another great pedestrian area in Galway with wonderful buskers, shops, pubs, and ice cream parlours. S and I enjoyed people-watching and drinking from the outdoor patio and walking around the city square. Nice!

The landscape reminds me quite a bit of when I visited Scotland in 2008 with C. Rocky areas, fields, hills and small mountains are all over the place. We've been lucky to have fairly cooperative weather. The mildness has been a welcome change from the hot & sticky, and the occasional rain shower is, dare I say, pleasant!

After leaving Galway, the next stop would be at The Cliffs of Moher. Ireland certainly has impressive natural formations! I was dismayed to see that people could walk right along the edge of the cliffs with no railing or anything to keep them from plummeting.  We didn't try it. From where we were, the view was fantastic and we had the pleasure of listening to a harpist.  Excellent. 

After a quick stop in Shannon, we headed to Limerick for the night. It was a pleasant enough city, although for us it was pretty much a stopover. S walked around a little and saw the local cathedral and castle, and I opted for a massage at the spa! It was pretty decadent. In fact, the best food I'd had in Ireland so far was at the restaurant adjoining our hotel. SO GOOD. Of course that may be partially due to the fact that we have been eating a lot of the same food, over and over.  We are both looking forward to peanut butter when we get home!

From Limerick, we headed to Killarney.  What's the difference between a "twinned city" and a "sister city"? Whatever it is, Killarney has plenty of both.  It also has a National Park, and it is the starting point for the Ring of Kerry, which is an all-day drive around a southwest peninsula (kind of like the Road to Hana in Maui).  We didn't have time to do it all, but we did see Killarney, Ladies' View, Ross Castle, Torc Waterfall and the town of Kenmare. Next time we'll plan our time better and do more!

Our last night in Ireland would be spent in Cork.  We drove around and saw much of the city while locating our B&B, and we walked down the street to have dinner at the aptly named Serendipity Cafe. Electric guitar serenaded us while we had yet another fantastic meal; we listened to Clapton, Metallica, Cash, and others. It was pretty cool, gotta say. 

Before leaving the Cork area the next day, we had to go to Blarney Castle and kiss the stone. I was convinced it was an overpriced gimmick but when we got there, there was actually quite a lot to do there, which made it more worth it. We walked through the beautiful gardens, and even one called "poison garden" which had all poisonous plants, including the marijuana plant, which had a cage all around it as to discourage samplers. There was a waterfall, and lovely trails all over. Oh yeah, and the castle too. And the stone. 

Last bit of Ireland was spent driving back to Dublin for a short flight to London, and then we'd have two separate flights back to Vancouver (I had a direct flight and S was via Amsterdam).  

Random bits about driving in Ireland:
- we rented a Toyota Auris at first. It was a standard transmission and it actually indicated when you were supposed to shift up or down. I thought that was cute!
- driving with a stick shift was fine and all, but I soon realized that my fine manual dexterity isn't as good with my left hand.
- the rural roads in Ireland are crazy. They are super narrow, there's usually no shoulder whatsoever, and the speed limits are unbelievably high. For example, the posted limit of 100km/hr was two feet in front of another sign that said, "Be careful of walkers on the road."  There are regularly trucks and semis coming the other way, and let's just say it gets hairy. 

- the roundabouts here are excellent, but I'm not a fan of the double-lane. Makes it confusing for where you think someone beside you is exiting and I don't like guessing about where other cars are going. So, I pretty much stayed in the outside lane in the roundabouts.
- no passing while in the slow lane. I knew this and was respecting it, but somehow without my even realizing it, I messed up. Right in front of a cop. Just my luck, eh? He made sure I was clear about that particular rule. 

- we changed over to a Skoda Octavia with automatic transmission after three days, so that S could drive too. I needed a break.

- they have "traffic calming areas" here. At home this would mean speed bumps, but here it means no passing and narrower lanes (as if they aren't narrow enough!)

Random bits about travel/this trip:

- a suitcase with four wheels on the bottom is awesome!!

- I think I need to be a little less efficient with my packing. I had tons of space in my suitcase, and about a week before the end, I got thoroughly sick of wearing all the same clothes. 

- if we could do it over, I'd plan the Ireland portion of this trip differently. Definitely less driving and more time spent enjoying locations. As it was, we were pretty go-go-go, which was like our tour (except we didn't have someone else doing all the "work" for us!).

- maybe I'm getting old, but a month is a long time to be away from home.  I think I'll prefer to do shorter trips in the future. Maybe. 

Our big adventure has come to an end!  Thanks for reading along and travelling with us!

xo

E!

Berlin and Westward Bound

Berlin. What a city. So much character and history. We saw The Wall, the Wannsee villa where the senior officials of the Nazi regime met to determine the "Final Solution," the Cecilienhof Palace (where Truman, Churchill, & Stalin met to decide the future of Germany/Europe after the end of WWII), Alexanderplatz, Brandenberg Gate, the Holocaust memorial, and more.

It was ridiculously hot, and we were in a constant state of stickiness. I tried currywurst, which is basically a hot dog covered with ketchup and curry powder. We had Starbucks, and some of our group went to McDonalds. Despite that though, the food in Germany is pretty good.

The last night in Berlin was a farewell dinner for the end of our tour. We were taken to a local place for food and all the drinks we could drink. There was singing (again with the volunteers and volun-tolds) and dancing. It is amazing how close you can become to people who you share these kinds of experiences with! I do hope that I'll cross paths with many of them again. The next day people left Germany for various destinations. S and I had most of the day to sightsee, and then we had a late flight to Dublin!

Abridged list of things I will never do again:

- schedule a flight to a foreign country that arrives after dark, especially when I have to find my own way to the accommodation

- rent a car wherein I am the only driver

- forget to get a list of detailed directions and maps of the area

Well, we had the directions, but they were printed in German. And anyways, one missed turn and those directions are useless in a city of one-way streets. After our own (many) attempts failed, and after we had asked countless people for directions, we actually paid a taxi driver to take us to our B&B while we followed behind. Brilliant idea, no? Well turns out that he got our street mixed up with another street (one was a St. and one was a Rd.) and left us in the completely wrong part of town, stranded. This was at about 2am.

Good thing/bad thing was we saw a lot of downtown Dublin. Well, S did anyways. I was too busy being stressed about driving stick and staying on the correct side of the road (S saved us from a near significant-mistake at one point). The street signs, if they are even there, are so far up and difficult to read. Even though it was a Sunday night, the bars were hopping and there were drunks everywhere, stumbling across the road and into the path of our car (they had no idea how perilous this would be).  I think we were the only non-taxi on the road.

It was a disaster. There was much colourful language (not at each other, just at Dublin in general). There was talk of sleeping in the car, and doing "business" in the alleys. I almost cried and/or threw a tantrum, but (barely) managed to keep it together. By the time we made it to our place and woke up the owners, it was 3:30am. We were still on Berlin time so it felt like 4:30am. Our flight had landed at 11:15pm and the B&B was 20 minutes from the airport. Not a great start.

The next day would prove to be much, much better. It is amazing what a good sleep, a good meal, a shower, and fresh cool air can do for an individual. :D

Xo

E!

Minsk & Warsaw

Leaving Russia and heading into Belarus, we noticed an immediate change in landscape and housing.  Much less disrepair and abandonment.  As we got closer to the city, it was noticeably clean and beautiful.  I don't know what I expected from Minsk, but I didn't think I would be so impressed!

Goran said that Belarus does not have a good reputation, and he tried to explain why. Specifically, the government is a dictatorship, and the leader of it does not have completely positive relationships with other countries in Europe. The value of their money is so weak that one Canadian dollar equals about 8570 Belarusian rubles. It is apparently the only country (in Europe?) that uses no coins whatsoever.

However, despite all of that, Belarus is one of the nicest places we've seen thus far. It did not seem to me that people were destitute; there was nice housing and no beggars and people seemed happy (although that's a pretty big assumption I suppose). Indeed, Goran says that the reputation "doesn't add up" to what we see in the country. And Goran also knows people who live there as well. So... perhaps Belarus is one of Europe's best-kept secrets!

Our free time in Minsk had us walking along the river.  The evening was warm and perfect. There were ducks swimming and couples in rowboats. Garden sculptures (different themes - perhaps a competition?) lined the park. Statues, flowers, benches and ahhhhhh.  Very nice. I would go back to Minsk and spend more time if I could.

Warsaw was something different altogether. It was easier to communicate with people, but there was tons of graffiti everywhere, and it was dirtier. On our city tour, the buildings were beautiful and ornate, but we were reminded that they are mostly not originals as nearly the whole city was destroyed in WWII.  But like Goran said, it truly is a city that "rose from the ashes." The Old Town was excellent (and quite a tourist haven) and we enjoyed sitting outside, on the patio, having lunch and people-watching (and being regularly bothered by the best-dressed gypsy children I have ever seen).

One of the optional excursions we chose to do was to attend a private piano recital given by a professor at the music department at Warsaw University. Warsaw was home to Chopin, and so we listened to his music, closed our eyes, and were transported away to another time, place and feeling. It was transcendental, truly. What a privilege to be able to experience that!

Our dinner was at a Polish specialty place and it included traditional Polish singers and dancers (not to mention all the wine we could drink). It was great fun, and even more so when they took volunteers (and volun-tolds) to learn dance routines and fun competitions like cracking whips and laying eggs. I'll just let you imagine it. :)

Then, off to Berlin!

xo

Elaan